Pair Wine and Cheese Review - Decadent Evening of Comfort & Creativity

Pair Wine and Cheese Review – Decadent Evening of Comfort & Creativity

By Julianne Clancy

It is often said that “cellar door” is the most beautiful phrase in the English language. However, I have to disagree. The loveliest combination of words is, undoubtedly, “wine and cheese”—a sentiment Chung Park, formerly of Murray’s Cheese and current owner of the new Pair Wine and Cheese in Cobble Hill, Brooklyn, definitely agrees with.

Photos courtesy of Pair Wine and Cheese

Park’s vision is clear from the moment you set foot in Pair. The dark dining room is lined with wine bottles set into recesses in the walls, while the bar sports a tempting case of cheeses at the end of it—a promise of the culinary and viticultural delights soon to come. The wooden tables lit by naked bulbs hung from the ceiling are at once chic and homey, while the outside seating (a small collection of metal tables and chairs overlooking a quiet garden) makes you feel as relaxed as if you were dining in a friend’s backyard.

Given the name of the restaurant, we began our night with a couple of wine and cheese pairings, selected by Park himself. The soft and oozing Robiola La Tur (a similar texture to buffalo mozzarella) was matched with a gently bubbly, dry Crémant that beautifully accented the milky sourness of the cheese. We followed up that delectable combination with a buttery and refreshing French Chablis that elevated the mushroomy, nutty, and grassy flavors of the well-aged Comte St. Antoine with which it was served. Both cheeses were accompanied with a sweet, floral peach jam, a slightly spicy pear and ginger mostarda, and addictive homemade crackers that tasted like the crisp crust of fresh-baked Italian bread. From my first few bites at Pair, I knew I had found a culinary soul-mate. I could not wait see what was in store from Chef Michael Kollaric, who has worked at industry studs such as Momofuko and Ma Peche.

Pair’s menu is definitely set up for sharing, so we selected several smaller plates and one large plate to share. We started with the Squash Hummus with Pepitas and Sage (served once again with those irresistible crackers), which was like the best parts of pumpkin pie and hummus rolled into one perfect dip. The sweetness of the squash balanced the spice of the hummus, while the light acidity of the dish allowed each flavor to shine.

Chef Michael likens his Roasted Beets with Cultured Cream Cheese, Pastrami-Cured Salmon, Salmon Roe, and Everything Bagel Crumble to “Sunday at a Jewish deli” while we agreed it was definitely a “guilty-pleasure.” The dish was absolutely bursting with flavors, from the sweetness of the slow-roasted beets to the acidic bite of the cheese to the spiciness of the salmon to the saltiness and caraway flavor of the crumble. Thank goodness this one was paired with a sweet, mild Grüner Veltliner wine, a Gewürztraminer-esque white that refreshed our palates after the taste explosion we had just enjoyed.

The Confit New Potatoes with Anchovy Emulsion and Fennel Pollen were like the best steak fries I’ve ever tasted—meltingly soft on the inside and incredibly crisp on the outside. My husband enjoyed the pungent, fishy sauce (in moderation), while I preferred to nibble the salty and herbal potatoes on their own.

The star of the small plates was the Cauliflower Salad with House Ricotta, Pickled Pear, Maitake Mushroom, and Brown Butter Vinaigrette. The crunchy caramelization of the cauliflower paired with the sweet, fluffy cheese, tart vinaigrette, and earthy maitakes was elegant, gentle, and supremely harmonized. Served with a peppery and light Oregonian Pinot Noir, this dish simply made me smile.

Even after such epicurean delights, our shared large plate did not disappoint. The Rigatoni with Pork Ragu, Baby Kale, and Grana Padano was nothing short of sublime. Made with tender local pasta, the dish was citrusy and unctuous with a low-burn heat that warmed us from deep within. The herbed bread crumbs were buttery crisps of perfection, while the kale imparted a freshness to the dish. Even as I write about it, my mouth waters and I find myself daydreaming about when I can go back and indulge again.

Stuffed to the gills with fabulous food, we ended our night with what I believe is one of the most perfect desserts in the world: blue cheese and port. The Quinta da Infantando tawny port had a strong, alcoholic nose but a chocolatey finish, accented by notes of cherry as well as some brighter stone fruits. The Caveman Blue, from the Rogue River Creamery in Oregon, was nutty and funky, with a beautiful blend of creaminess and crystallization. This final delicacy was, as Park noted when he set down the cheese, “salty and sweet, what could be better”—and I could not agree more.

Photos courtesy of Pair Wine and Cheese

Much like wine and cheese combinations, Pair is a beautiful mix of the best of both worlds. The chic but homey setting is the perfect atmosphere to sample Chef Michael’s outrageously creative food—a menu that is startlingly unique while still encompassing all of your favorite flavors, from lox and bagels on a late morning to Mom’s ragu on a Sunday night. Backed by Chung Park’s amazing cheese and wine know-how, this sweet new spot is sure to be a hit in Cobble Hill, and is well-worth making the trip for anyone in the city.