MASTI Review – Fun Indian Street Food

By Stephanie Swain

Admittedly, I have an alarmingly disturbing burger addiction. So strong is my illness that much of my free time is spent scowering Atlanta for the next greatest beef innovation between two buns. I’ve been on the hunt for about the last 7 years and just when I think I’ve hit the pinnacle, a new king is crowned. But sometimes, even I like to branch out, you know, see what other cultures might be able to create that might be equally drool worthy.

Some months back, I kept reading such excellent reviews about Masti, an Indian street food joint in Decatur named Chai Pani that it became necessary to confirm or deny. When I say that not a word written about this place lived up to the actual experience, you must believe. The Chicken Pakora (succulent, deep fried, boneless chicken pieces tossed in chickpea flour) was so scrumptious, I couldn’t cram it into my face fast enough. The chutney dipping sauce, bursting with Cilantro goodness could be ingested alone like a shot of pure happiness.

Even better, my tomato and cheese uttapam (savory rice and lentil crepes served with sambar and coconut chutney) was so intensely flavorful with its ginger and chili’s, I still get misty when I think of it. While I’ve certainly meant to get back, my burger obsession has been a constant detour. Then recently, I read about another new Indian street food place that popped up in Toco Hills and figured if they were even in the same stratosphere as Chai Pani, it would be worth looking into.

The definition of MASTI in Hindi translates to “fun” and going by their menu of kooky American/Indian fusion items like Spiced Keema Burgers and Paneer Dogs, it seemed like that would be the case. I normally lunch with my friend Lyndsay who’s always up for something new but this time her fiancée Chris decided to step out with us and was more than a smidge skeptical. His co-workers have ordered traditional Indian take out food that left him supremely underwhelmed on each occasion so he just assumed Masti would be nasty. However, after much coaxing and threats of bodily harm, he relented and we were on our way.

First off, it’s always a joy when you find a place to eat ITP (Inside the Perimeter for you Non-ATL’ers) that has ample and FREE parking. Masti is located in one of the older strip malls off of North Druid Hills, super accessible with a great patio area if you choose to perspire like a gorilla while you dine. In this humble ham’s opinion, July in Georgia, specifically at high noon, requires air conditioning to truly enjoy being gluttonous. I’m sure when it cools off, the outdoor space will be to the brim.

Upon arrival, we were greeted as well as seated right away. The host was cordial, not overly so, just enough to make you feel welcome but not like he’s your new best friend. I’ve never been a fan of “over the top fake” wait staff. The interior is totally relaxing with its laid back Indian music and extremely appealing to the eye with a modern/rustic/Bollywood design. Makes a diner feel instantly comfortable and ready to unbutton those gut imposing pants.

Instead of the old standard bread given at most places, our waiter brought us a bowl of what I’m pretty sure he called “Crunch’ems”, a Masti exclusive.

I could never be left alone with a large quantity of these while watching any of my favorite food porn shows or I would definitely end up in the emergency room. Very addictive. So crunchy and light, the texture of a pork rind without the pig skin taste. They get a tad greasy towards the bottom of the bowl which, incidentally, revealed itself about 3 minutes after they were placed on our table. I didn’t ask what they were made of since Chis was actually starting to think this place might be alright. Had we been informed they were Cobra skin cracklin’s or the like, the new open minded vibe could’ve been soured post haste.

We made our decisions and Chris chose to go with something that sounded “normal”, the Amritsari fish & chips, described on the menu as fried tilapia in chick pea flour with a perfection of spices.

One bite into the fish and Masti welcomed a new convert into the fold. I was graciously allowed a sample and concurred with my formerly cynical co-eater 100 percent. The tilapia was perfectly moist and flaky. The crust superbly crisp, airy, filled with a wonderful cilantro pixie dust sprinkled throughout the flour blend. Dunking the perfect planks in Masti’s “special tartar sauce” just puts it over the top though. Chris couldn’t stop gushing about how it was easily some of the greatest fish he’d ever had the pleasure of devouring. Side bar-the fries are pretty tasty also. Especially when dipped in the spicy ketchup.

Lyndsay, my trusted food consigliere, was more intrigued by some of the street food offerings like the chicken Kathi rolls. Not wanting to look like a goob, she asked our waiter the correct pronunciation, which he politely confirmed as “kat-tee”.

Her only complaint was that she couldn’t eat it every moment for the rest of her life. Unlike myself, I’m quite sure she later regretted the sample she forked over to her old pal. The grilled chicken Tikka had been hammered out thin, then rolled up tight, resembling a hot dog. Wickedly juicy and delicious on its own but when paired with the bell peppers, sautéed onions, special Masti sauce and served in the soft wrap, it’s nothing short of astounding. Just fiery enough to get the nose running yet not exceedingly so. That’s one thing we really noticed about this place. They have such a firm grip on their spices. Everything is subtle and at the same time exceptionally vibrant. There IS a spice bar at the front of the restaurant where patrons can self-serve and get crazy if that’s what they’re into but I can’t understand why flawless execution wouldn’t be enough for most people.

Finally, my turn and I have to go for the butter chicken Utthapam tacos, since as I previously told you guys, I still weep about that Chai Pani lunch from awhile back.

Holy Shiva! I can still almost taste them as I type this now. The zesty curried chicken, basmati rice, red onions, cilantro and sweet mercy, whatever that Masti sauce is comprised of, all encased in like the best pancake ever flipped, it’s just food nirvana. Lyndsay had a bite and concluded that she enjoyed my dish as much as the Kathi rolls which was seriously high praise since she was such a lunatic about those things. I noticed a spelling difference between Chai Pani’s uttapam and Masti’s uttahpam as well as a difference in the textures. The former being more crepe like but they are equally phenomenal.

With everything being so pleasing, including the prices (mine was $8.99), we (and when I say “we” I mean even Chris) will definitely be back to try some of the other interesting options on the menu. Too full for dessert this time but I would love to have a go at the sweet carrot soufflé with vanilla ice cream or experiment with some of the extensive drink selections next outing.

If I had to list just one negative thing to round out this review, there was more of a lag time than we cared for in between our seating and when the orders were taken, but that’s nitpicking. Overall, the wait staff were lovely. If you’re interested in something a bit different for lunch or dinner, please hit up Masti. Whether you’re an Indian food novice/doubter or a seasoned foodie, everyone will undoubtedly have a fun and delectable dining experience.