El Centro DF – Oaxaca Destination Menu Review
By Diana Oberoi
The first few days of December in DC have been a cold and soggy mess. I find myself bundled in countless layers just to step outside, all while wishing to be whisked away to an exotic (and warm) location!
Although I won’t be taking any trips south of the border until after the holidays, El Centro DF Oaxaca “destination menu” will guarantee my taste buds are transported away from the dreariness of DC.
The new “destination menu” is inspired by Richard Sandoval’s recent trip to Oaxaca, Mexico. Sandoval, the Chef/Owner of El Centro DF and his corporate chefs travel to a different region of Mexico twice a year to research the area’s culinary heritage and celebrated foods.
The new destination menu will be new additions on El Centro’s menu, marked with a special “*” symbol to note that it is an exclusive and limited time option. These dishes are available until January 31st and they highlight the bold flavors of Oaxaca’s culinary heritage with finesse. Each dish is carefully crafted, striking the fine balance between authentic and approachable.
There are so many delicious choices to try, you will want to grab several friends and try them all!
Need some options on what to go for first? On a particularly frigid evening I sat down with a group of fellow foodies to bring you the Intel on several of the new destination dishes.
The Chapulines Guacamole sounded intimidating, I’ll admit I’ve had grasshoppers before and they were delish. However, I have never had crispy grasshoppers in my guac. But, here’s the thing: you don’t see grasshopper antenna or legs. No parts of the grasshopper are distinguishable. What you do see is this amazing lava bowl of guac that is mixed to order and dusted with grasshopper “ash”. The ash adds a savory toasty backbone to the lusciously creamy guac.
The Chapulines Guacamole pairs very well with the El Chapo cocktail. It’s one of two new libations priced at $12 crafted by Rob Day, Richard Sandoval Restaurant’s National Beverage Director. The El Chapo packs a big punch of flavor largely thanks to the el silencio mezcal. This mezcal cocktail offers a lightly smoky entrance, which melds into a rich and citrus sweet backbone thanks to the pineapple juice.
My favorite appetizer is the Shrimp Ceviche. The broth is really the star here. Once you polish off the poached shrimp, don’t neglect that broth. It has a depth that really makes you stop and say wow! This dish hits all the right notes with different textural elements that set this ceviche apart from others in the city.
Tamal de Hoja Santa was also a table favorite! The mild flavored tamal wrapped in aromatic leaf features Oaxaca cheese (similar to a farmer’s cheese or paneer) resting on herby tomato sauce, with a slight kick and sprinkled with Cotija cheese.
If you’re in the mood for tacos, definitely go for the Pipian Pork Belly Tacos. They were so good that even those in the group who aren’t usually a fan of pork belly couldn’t stop raving how awesome it tasted. The pork belly is nicely charred with this fantastic garlicy oregano essence and is topped with pickled carrots and pearl onions. The flavors really take me back to the days of grabbing antojitos in a busy market outside of Mexico City.
While waiting on entrees, we tried another appetizer that harkens me back to busy street markets: the Crispy Potatoes & Chorizo. This may seem like simple dish, but it’s not your everyday papas. The potato confit sings with roasted garlic, sour cream, chorizo and some of the best pickled cactus I’ve ever had. The cactus still has a great bite to it. The subtle flavor of cactus and salt in the same bite with chorizo and potato is exactly what I want to nosh on with another El Chapo.
Suddenly our table was engulfed in this intoxicatingly rich, savory and sweet aroma. The entrees had arrived!
Hands down we all agreed the Shrimp Tamal was the most beautifully presented. One bite is all it takes before a hush falls over the table. Talking is replaced with wide eyes and nods of approval. The chef brilliantly showcases the sweetness of corn in this tamal by adding fresh whole kernels to the interior. The shrimp are perfectly seared with garlic and oil sprinkled with dehydrated mole. The complexity of the mole is still astounding even in powdered form. This one of the dishes that really highlights the creativity in the kitchen and El Centro putting their own spin on Oaxacan dishes.
The next entrée we tried was Braised Short Ribs in Mezcal Moleis. This is pure comfort food. Its deep flavors are both familiar yet foreign and the dish just warms you from the inside, like a fluffy blanket. The short ribs are braised to perfection and ridiculously succulent. Surprisingly the vegetables, though not the star weren’t an afterthought in preparation. The zucchini and squash aren’t cooked to death. They maintain a nice snap, while the pinto beans and mezcal mole sauce really bring out this wonderful stewiness that is exactly what you want to be eating when it’s so cold!
The last dish we sampled was the Smoked Pork Tenderloin with pumpkin mole on roasted butternut, with pumpkin seeds, mole poblano, and Cotija cheese. The pork is super tender with a smoky essence that makes you think it took hours in a smoker to create. The pickled red onion plays nicely against sweetness of roasted butternut and the mole poblano is exactly what you would think of then you hear “mole”. This decadent sauce is smoky, with spices that are woven in with a mild tinge of heat. It’s rounded out with a nuttiness that is indescribably good.
This is one destination menu that will definitely break you out of the winter blues.
The destination menu is available at both El Centro DF Georgetown (located at 1218 Wisconsin Avenue, NW, 20007) and El Centro DF on 14th (located at 1819 14th Street, NW, 20009).
Lunch
Monday – Friday: 11:00am – 4:00pm
Dinner
Sunday – Tuesday: 5:00pm – 10:00pm
Wednesday – Saturday: 5:00pm – 11:00pm
Late Night
Thursday: 11:00pm – 2:00 am
Friday – Saturday: 11:00pm – 3:00am
Happy Hour
4-7pm Daily (only available at the bar)