By Chip Harrison
The charged atmosphere at Cecconi’s is infectious. Happy couples smile amid flickers of candlelight teased by the ocean breeze. The spirit seemed particularly high this evening as the crimson hue of negroni cocktails cast a seductive glow on the outer courtyard. To kick off Negroni week, Cecconi’s baristas and chefs teamed up to deliver a 4 course pairing in celebration of the Italian Apéritif. Seeing as a portion of the proceeds for each drink goes to charity, we all felt compelled to do our part.
A traditional negroni consists of one part gin, one part vermouth rosso, and one part Campari. The gin can be substituted however, as is done in the ‘negroni sbagliato’, for a dry prosecco. Garnished with an orange peel and a lil’ kick, the drink is meant to tempt the appetite and loosen the inhibitions. At first taste you get the sense of something exotic. The negroni has an intense herbal quality shrouded in a bit of sweet citrus. Immediately following is a very bitter reminder that Mr. Campari will be joining you for the rest of the evening. He is by no means an unpleasant companion, but definitely not for those of mild taste.
Though coming on strong, the sbagliato doesn’t steal all the attention away from its partner, the Caponata and Goat Cheese Crostini. The sweet caponata offers the perfect vinegary-sweet compliment to a rich spread of crumbly goat cheese. The entire affair ends in a satisfying crunch. Its a fun start, but whether this drink and dish are meant to be seated together is debatable.
Next on the guest list is the ‘Cheeky Negroni’ accompanied by a kumquat hamachi. This negroni twist tastes right at home on the Florida beach. Substituting a local aperol for the Campari, the Cheeky Negroni is bolstered by a local St. Augustin gin, Lillet Blanc and splash of fresh grapefruit. Sweet enough, but by no means naive, this palatable blend welcomes you gently, only to leave you dazed and wanting more. All the bitter realities of life are masked nicely by its sophisticated citrusy aftertaste. Its a definite do.
By its side the equally attractive Hamachi boasts an aromatic mix of kumquat and jalapenos atop paper thin slices of Japanese amberjack. The fish is delicate and delicious, but slightly overpowered by the soy sauce glaze. Still, I would be more than happy to host this duo again.
Clearing the palate for the main course is a traditional Negroni bottled in-house from a home made vermouth and spanish cherry Campari. The intensely saccharine vermouth collides starkly with the staunch Campari resulting in a medicini-sweet wallop to the palate. With nothing but the lingering taste of gin to brace the impact, I pushed it aside with hopes set on the more modest Duck Ragu Pappardelle. House made egg noodles cooked to perfection adorned with earthy morsels of pulled duck. Its the kind of dish that makes you want an Italian grandmother. Comforting, pure, and coming from a simpler place, this meal is absolutely gratifying.
After lapping up the last of the ragu, the menagerie of Negronis began to take their effect. Inhibitions long gone, the final course arrived featuring a Blood Orange Sorbet saturated in more of our dear friends Mr. Campari and gin. A Negroni by any other name is still a negroni and although the sorbet is delightful, we had had our fill at this point. Naturally, In the spirit of charity we knocked back the last of the bitter-sweet orangey treat. Individually the dishes shine brightly, but I fail to see any real cohesion between the flavor profiles. The only thing that seems to pair nicely with this many Negronis is a cab.