Written and Photographed by Karen D’Or
Diavola Pizzeria Review
The Diavola Pizzeria wild hog icon protrudes over Geyserville’s early 1900s-era storefronts, devilishly proclaiming a pork-eating headquarters in this sleepy north Sonoma County hamlet.
As you enter Diavola — devilish in Italian — massive hanging pork bellies, shoulders and shanks showcase Chef Dino Bugica’s salumi curing abilities, and snout-to-tail butchery talents, gained from his decade of experience cooking in Italy. Diavola’s hearty menu choices, which change daily, show off a “cucina povera” philosophy — frugal peasant recipes utilizing top-notch local and fresh ingredients.
Although rustic, the Diavola experience is welcoming and authentic. Once you pass the front counter salumeria display, the polished interior emanates comfort with arching brick columns, thick-planked wood floors, and whitewashed walls. An industrious, but not too intrusive, staff diligently keeps the tabletop mason jar of willowy thin, crispy sesame-seed covered bread sticks full. The restaurant’s wine list shows its love of local Alexander Valley wineries as well as a handpicked selection of small batch Italian wines.
Lunch starts with a juicy local tomato salad featuring pickled red onion, fat chunks of gorgonzola cheese, juicy red heirloom tomato quarters complemented by crispy lemon cucumber slices. With this jumble of colorful crunchy vegetables over spicy greens and lightly dressed in a citrusy vinaigrette, oregano, and fresh pepper it’s a perfect starter for the rich Italian food to follow.
Diavola’s Neapolitan-style pizza from their massive wood burning is legendary in Sonoma County. The restaurant does not take any reservations Friday through Sunday, plus they offer take out all day, so the wait for a table (or a pizza) is often epic— and worthwhile. Today the pizza special is an Italian-Hawaiian hybrid with house-made porchetta, Walla Walla onions, pickled pineapple, and Serrano peppers. Served over a melding of mozzarella cheese and tomato sauce on a crust nicely singed on the bottom. The peppers are the stars on this dish, bringing just the right amount of heat to the pie.
Although renowned for pizza, Diavola’s Ragu is a remarkably rewarding choice. Served often with special game, like local rabbit, or as a menu staple such as Baked Rigatoni Pork Cheek Ragu, the robust meat sauce seeps into luscious fresh pasta. Baked with shaved garlic, rosemary, and pecorino cheese, Diavola’s meaty ragu sauce is the best and most authentic in the North Bay area.
Diavola is located in the heart of Sonoma County’s beautiful wine country, and a great place to indulge in carefully prepared local bounty. Diavola is open Monday – Thursday: 11:30am to 9:00pm, accepting reservations for parties of 8 or more and Friday – Sunday 11:30am to 9:00pm, accepting walk-in customers only. Diavola Pizzeria, 21021 Geyserville Ave, Geyserville, California