By Jessica Lewandowski
Toni Patisserie Review – French Pastries by Millennium Park
On a Wednesday morning, my pastry-loving friend and I visited Toni Patisserie in Chicago, owned by Toni Cox and her husband, Paul. The French patisserie/café atmosphere was instantaneous, upon entering. Dressed in 20’s period decor and architecture, the patisserie/café evaded the hustle and bustle of Chicago commuters. The building was well-lit both naturally through windows and by hanging, artistic light fixtures.
The dining area at the front of the store was filled with marble-top tables, fresh flowers, specialty cake displays and eclectic art (some even hand-made by Toni). Soft, up-beat accordion music wavered through the air over the pleasantly busy crowd in the store. The counters near the back-end displayed breakfast pastries, neat rows of individual desserts, and teas. Behind the counters were blackboard menus that hung over the plating area, and beyond that was a small peak of the kitchen area, bustling with chefs.
We met with Paul, who was incredibly informative and friendly. Simply in the way he spoke of his wife and the history of her and her patisserie, I could tell he was dedicated to and passionate of their work together. He was happy to chat with us, greet guests, buss tables and speak with employees. Paul explained the timeline of Toni working as an executive pastry chef, being invited to move her skills to Disneyland in Paris, France, and returning to the U.S. to open her own business. The pastry chefs at Toni Patisserie are provided with fresh produce and high-quality European butters, so guests can have flavorful, scratch-made products daily. The coffee beans are provided especially for this café by the Metropolis Coffee Company of Chicago. Almost everything has a history, from the building to their signature white chocolate mousse cake, if you let Paul tell you.
The menu was surprisingly extensive. Breakfast dishes like waffles, French toast and Toni Benedict are offered until 11 a.m. Lunch menus offered a selection of salads, soups and sandwiches. There was also a “specials” board, which listed classic French plates such as Quiche Lorraine, Croque Monsieur, Galette, and Fromage Grille. I observed that all the menus had mentions of Gruyere cheese, French ham, and “seasonal” throughout. Also surprising was Toni Patisserie’s beer and wine list in addition to the coffee and tea menu board.
Instead of via menu, Toni Patisserie showcased all desserts and pastries for sale in glass cases. It’s worth mentioning that my friend was vegetarian, and there were many options for her to choose from, both savory and sweet. After much scouring, my friend and I chose a Latte and Cappuccino, the Quiche Lorraine, a Caprese Sandwich, the Signature White Chocolate Mousse Cake (suggested by Paul), three types of Macarons: mint chocolate chip, black cherry and butter pecan (suggested by a customer), and an éclair. After we ordered, we were invited to sit at a table of our choice for all of our tasty treats to arrive at. This allowed us to pick a view of Millennium Park.
Our Latte and Cappuccino came out first, and were served in clear glasses on plates. Both were hand-made, hot and topped with plentiful amounts of foam. The Quiche Lorraine and Caprese Sandwich arrived shortly after. The quiche was composed of savory pie crust, chopped bacon and fluffy egg filling, all topped with a layer of caramelized Swiss cheese. I was delighted to see my slice of quiche was accompanied with a small salad made of greens, cucumber, tomato, red onion and a fantastic citrus-Dijon dressing.
The Caprese Sandwich was layered with thick slices of tomato and mozzarella, fresh arugula and basil, and a drizzle of balsamic vinaigrette on a classic French baguette. We were surprised to learn that Toni Patisserie doesn’t bake their bread; however, the owners hand-picked their bread from La Fournette: a French bakery backed by generations of classic bread baking technique. Both the quiche Lorraine and caprese sandwich were moderate, filling portions, but the freshness of the ingredients provided a satisfying lightness to them.
It was time to dive into our desserts. We chose to start with Toni Patisserie’s Signature White Chocolate Mousse Cake, which we quickly realized will instantly satisfy any sweet tooth. A single slice contains white cake, mousse filling, icing, white chocolate shavings and a glazed strawberry slice. The signature dessert has an aerated texture and an intense sweetness that can be cut by the acidity in the raspberry coulis served on the side. I found that this would make a great after-dinner dessert to share with another over glasses of French wine at the café.
Next, my friend and I split the mint chocolate chip Macaron, which tasted just like mint-chip ice cream. This macaron was very light and was reminiscent of a thin-mint cookie. The black cherry Macaron was surprisingly downplayed in flavor, so the flavor of the cookie was more pronounced than the ganache filling, but tasted like black cherry nonetheless. The butter pecan Macaron, suggested to us by a customer, had a very classic flavor that gave me a very “home baking” feeling.
I was most impressed by our final dessert: the éclair. This éclair was exactly what it should be. Telling by the flavor of the pâte à choux shell, the piping lines and the custardy filling, this éclair was 100% made in-store by professionals. This cannot be found in grocery stores or many other bakeries. If you’ve never experienced a real French éclair, please visit Toni Patisserie.
Toni Patisserie is an excellent choice to remove one’s self from a hectic world, even if for only a minute. Every item my friend and I chose was expertly assembled and delicious. The food and pastries were fresh and real. Before leaving, I realized I could not visit a French café without grabbing a plain croissant for the trip home. Of course, it was perfect.
Toni Patisserie has two stores in Chicago and Hinsdale. Operating hours vary between locations. Bottles of French wine are offered for sale, and the patisserie offers special occasion cakes and catering services.
Is there a reason why, unlike patisseries in France, a bakery in the US can never simply be bakery but must morph into a bakery/sandwich/soup/salad place? This isn’t a patisserie. It’s a lunch spot with dessert. Go to a patisserie in France and ask for some quiche, a sandwich and some wine. They’ll look at you as if you’re speaking esperanto. Patisseries don’t serve caprese sandwiches or wine or salads or even bread. They serve pastries.The French don’t buy their wine from the same place they get their cakes.
“We were surprised to learn that Toni Patisserie doesn’t bake their bread”. I was surprised to learn that you don’t know the difference between a patisserie and a boulangerie.
But hey, this woman’s Disney experience is clearly driving things. Americans need a theme when they eat, even if that theme is woefully inaccurate. This is like a place you’d see in EPCOT Paris. It bears no resemblance to a patisserie you’d find in France but hey we have wine! and quiche! and “patisserie” in our name! Those are all Frenchy things! All they need is their staff to wear berets and striped shirts and the inane stereotype is complete.
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