Scampo Review – Prison Dining

By Denise Marcotte

Crime pays …….that is, when you turn an iconic 19th century jail into a cutting edge, modern, luxury hotel in the heart of a city and throw a celebrity, chef-owned restaurant into the mix. Combining history, style and elegance, Scampo (“escape” in Italian) is Lydia Shire’s chic, Italian fare and mozzarella bar restaurant located on the first floor of Boston’s Liberty Hotel. From the moment you arrive, the atmosphere and decor are warm and welcoming. The staff is gracious, lively and informative.

My sister and I chose to begin with the Fried Calamari. The delicate, crunchy, slightly peppery batter combined with the sweet and hot peppers created a frisky dance of flavors. Honestly, it was so light and yummy it was gone in no-time whatsoever. When the two entrees arrived, I couldn’t help feel as if I were a curator admiring works of art. The dishes were aesthetically and exquisitely presented; every element purposely placed.

When we began to dive in, I realized the skillful arrangement was much more than just artful – cheek to cheek tastes were so aligned it was pure heaven. I had Ricotta Ravioli made with stone ground wheat dough with buttered pomodoro and roasted romanesco. Purple Sicilian cauliflower, pine nuts, raisins and browned basil bits were the surprise of the party. Truly this is what the dish was all about: celebration.

I marveled at every godsent bite. As a purist, I was a tad hesitant when I read “stone ground wheat dough” for ravioli. But it was thin, light and buttery. The ricotta both in and on top was fresh and creamy and retained its’ texture through every morsel. Though plenty of components to this dish, the cohesion, composition and construction created a pure and simple grace, evocative of Italy’s rural countryside.

For me, the end of the dish is almost as important as square one. The way the oil, butter and tomato sauces clung to their form wholly is a sign of well prepared ingredients. The consistency of the bottom of the dish did not surrender its’ sophistication found throughout the meal. It was nothing short of perfection.

My sister ordered the Veal Scallopini Carrozella with marsala and pecorino and watercress gnocchi. Sweet, hot peppers, fried mozzarella and a mushroom mix enhanced the dish to bring it to a complete harmony. It was truly a symphony of tastes, flavors and textures. The veal was a surprise: thick yet especially tender. The egg batter was delicate and divine, reminiscent of my Nonna’s. If your idea of fried mozzarella is that of the appetizer sticks meant to soothe your picky eater toddler, there is no time like the present to expand your mozzarella horizons. In fact this could have been mistaken as the main player of the dish.

The fabulous flavor of the pasta filata coupled with the crispy coating was a pure delight. Simply sui generis. The gnocchi was made with watercress and gave the starchy consistency a fresh, veggie twist. The light and velvety sauce was a true companion for sopping up. A mix medley of white and brown beech mushrooms chaperoned with a brawny yet unassuming sauce offered an impressive oomph to this dish. Thrown in for color and a healthy punch, were fresh red peppers and pungent arugula. I echoed my sister’s sentiment: “I don’t want it to end!”

For our sweet course we chose the traditional Tiramisu and Key Lime Pie. The pie was made with a base of coconut lady fingers, topped with creamy tangy custard and a strawberry sorbet accompanied by a crisp wafer cookie. It was enhanced with a light, sweet, strawberry sauce and crunchy, cookie crumbs.

Ah, tiramisu. It has become synonymous with the churned out Italian food more depicted of America than Italy. Not this tiramisu. Wow. For those of you who have been living in a cave for the past century, tiramisu is a layered dessert made with the bold flavors of cocoa, espresso caramel, Tia Maria liqueur, mascarpone cheese and lady finger biscuits. It’s lavish and indulgent. The flavors were truly unforgettable and intense. The liqueured, airy sponginess of the cake combined with the milky cream, granulated coffee and brown rock sugar made me flat out giddy. No better way to end the party.

The soul of Scampo is in its’ artistry, authenticity and the synthesis of ingredients. The sauces are full bodied, complex and velvety. Lydia Shire’s signature whisper of butter reigned supreme right through. The tastes and textures are strong and luscious. It is elegant and sophisticated. In Boston, this is a foodie sine qua non.