Pambiche Review

Wake up late on a Sunday, pick up a newspaper, and head to the Laurelhurst neighborhood of Portland for a meal full of surprising flavors. A Cuban brunch is always an enjoyable experience. Pambiche, named after a Latin American dance derived from Merengue is the best Cuban place in town, John, the owner, cooks the tastiest treats, which are savory and sweet. Pambiche is a small place, colorful, friendly, and a perfect spot to eat outside and watch the world go by.

I started off with a hot chocolate. The bitter dark chocolate swirls beautifully with the Chantilly cream, the sweetness awakens my taste buds. Its never too hot or too cold, a perfect warm temperature ready to be gulped down.

To pair with the richness of the drink I balanced out the meal with bold meatier flavors of a Croqueta Preparada, a Cuban sandwich.  The sandwich is evenly layered with ham, chicken, Swiss cheese, dill pickle, and croquetas.  Every bite plays with your tongue, the first taste is the freshness of the grilled bread, then the tanginess of the pickle and yellow mustard, quickly followed by the saltiness of black forest ham and seasoned shredded chicken. The last surprise is the softness of the croqueta, fried to perfection yet melts instantly. On the side were fried green plantains, a fruit tasting like banana, cooked like French fries and eaten the same way with Pambiche’s homemade ketchup.

My date followed the same flavor journey: first sweet followed by hearty. He had the most popular drink, a Cuban coffee called Cortadito, an espresso with steamed milk.  The waiter had drawn a heart in the milk, a sweet touch added to every coffee drink.

In brunch tradition he had breakfast, the Revoltillo de Chorizo, an egg scramble. The spiciness of the chorizo played wonderfully with the light fluffy flavors of the eggs and earthy flavor of the yucca root. It was paired with a roasted red pepper and garlic toast, baked to have a crispy crust but a warm soft center.

Whenever I come here I always finish with the same side dish, their renowned Maduros, ripe fried sweet plantains. They are gooey throughout and have a caramelized exterior.  They crunch and melt in your mouth the same way a crème brulee would. They are accompanied by a dry slaw of cabbage and basil, cleansing your palate with its herb flavor. There is always room for delectable Maduros, even after such a splendid meal.

The owner has an extensive dessert background so it is an insult to not at least try something in the dessert case. They are all delightful and yummy in their own way, so I got two (wrapped up to go) and ate them later with a large glass of milk.

First was the Gypsy’s Arm, which I can’t pronounce in Spanish but is called Brazo Gitano.  This dessert has marmalade, which if you have never had, is what I imagine heaven tastes like if you could mash it up and seal it in a jar. The pineapple lime marmalade goes well with the dense cake its rolled up in, and the powered sugar on top adds a nice dryness to such a moist pastry. The flavors are so well balanced all of a sudden the whole thing is gone and you’re craving another.

Which makes it time for the flan.  I have meet several people who have no idea what flan is. Its custard, which tastes like cream, and it has a caramel flavored coating.  It’s a traditional Cuban dessert, it’s the owner’s grandmother’s secret recipe, and it taste so light it gives you such a happiness inside every time you take a bite.  Without a doubt, Cuban brunch is always an enjoyable experience.