Novo – Modern American Bistro, Historic Neighborhood

By Caroline Culbertson

Set in the heart of Oak Park’s Hemingway District, Novo is just blocks away from architect Frank Lloyd Wright’s home. Although this American Bistro is surrounded by historic landmarks, their cuisine couldn’t be any more modern. Locally-sourced ingredients are paired with wines from sustainable vineyards.

My guest and I had the pleasure of dining here recently. We enjoyed an indulgent tasting menu put together by Executive Chef Corey Laub. Wine pairings were coordinated by managing partner, Neb Mrvaljevic.

When our first plate hit the table, the Chef Laub’s ingenuity was shining bright. The large Ravioli, filled with Sweet Purple Carrots, were lightly dressed in a Bacon and Saffron Cream Sauce. Crowned by snappy Mustard Seeds, fresh Radish, and Trout Caviar, this dish was impressive. Mr. Mrvaljevic chose a crisp and refreshing Chablis to compliment the course. It tasted of citrus and sweet stone fruit.

Beets can have a bland flavor and are generally not a crowd favorite. Novo’s beet salad contains Candied Beets, displaying their natural sweetness. The earthy depth was accented by a Ras El Hanout Vinaigrette. Ras El Hanout is a North African spice blend made from “top-shelf” ingredients. An incredibly fragrant Sancerre was chosen to compliment the salad. I remarked to my companion, “if this were a perfume, I would wear it every day for the rest of forever!” Its juicy grapefruit notes were accompanied by delicate florals. When paired with the Ras El Hanout vinaigrette, I thought I was in a lush Moroccan oasis.

Novo’s Shrimp and Scallop Ceviche is another fantastic dish on their regular menu. Red Pepper Aioli and Candied Lemon brought forward the subtle sweetness of the tender seafood. A herbaceous Sauvignon Blanc highlighted the briny bed of Olive and Pickled Jalapenos.

We had another Scallop sighting at this American Bistro. This time, they were seared in decadent Bone Marrow Butter and laid on a bed of Sunchoke and Turnip Hash. Butter-soft Scallops were brightened by a Golden Raisin reduction. We also indulged in their perfect Squash Risotto. Creamy and hearty, it had a bit of heat from fresh Chilis and sweetness from the Butternut Squash. Topped with a crispy Rice Paper, and paired with a Pinot Noir, this dish screamed “comfort food!!!”

My favorite plating at this American Bistro was the Grouper. Charred Grouper Pectoral Fin and Collar sat atop Spaghetti Squash and lightly-dressed Greens. The fish was accompanied by a Vanilla-Beet Cream and Seared Pork Belly, under a drizzle of Cherry Vinegar Reduction. This dish was almost too beautiful to eat, but I’ve never let that stop me before! Meaty Grouper and Sweet Spaghetti Squash played fantastically with the tangy Vinegar Reduction. The melt-in-your-mouth Pork Belly brought forward the Grouper’s smoky char. Chef Corey, again, used sweetness to compliment the flavor of the locally-grown Beets. A Vanilla-Beet Cream highlighted the caramelization of the Pork Belly. 

To conclude this exceptional dinner, we devoured a Rustic Apple Bundt Cake. House-made Cinnamon Ice Cream and Amaretto Anglaise brought a cool creaminess to this dish. A fantastic Smoked Apple Butter made the cake sing.

Novo is celebrating its first anniversary in mid-February. It has proven to have plenty of experience and talent and will be a staple in Oak Park. Charles Molinaro’s has a gift for crafting cocktails, including a fantastic Manhattan. The genius collective of Molinaro, Laub and Mrvaljevic made this American Bistro a must-visit spot.

Novo is located at 734 Lake Street in Oak Park and is open 4:30PM to 10:00PM Monday through Thursday, Friday from 4:30PM to 11:00PM, Saturday from 11:30AM to 11PM, and Sunday from 10:00AM to 9:00PM. Be sure to check out their Weekend Brunch Menu as well as their Sunday Family Dinner Menu. They also offer Weeknight Specials Half-Priced Glass of Wine on Monday , Half-priced Bottles of Wine on Tuesday, and $2 off Cocktails on Wednesday.

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