Masseria Review – Style and Flavor in NoMa

By Kacy Kish

Masseria, the new Italian concept by former Bibiana chef Nick Stefanelli, is one of the most talked about new restaurants of the summer. The sleek indoor/outdoor space, offering pre-fix only dinners, is tucked away on an otherwise deserted street in a former produce warehouse in NoMa. After spending much of the summer away on travel, I returned full of curiosity about this hot spot and its exotic location.

Reservations are already hard to come by, but two girlfriends and I managed to squeeze ourselves in on a recent Saturday night.

Walking up to the sexy courtyard, which also serves as a lounge and outside dining area, you feel like you’ve scored an invite to a rich mogul’s house – a rich mogul who knows how to party. The space is at once elegant and playful, with reclaimed wood, plush couches and lights strung overhead.

We arrived early, but not to worry, the outside drink service is very attentive. Before I’d even finished complementing my friend’s outfit, a server approached with a drink list. Two of us had glasses of a rosé from Provence and the third had the Pepino di Capri, a Prosecco-based drink with a Belvedere vodka-lemon sorbet, a pre-dinner snack as she described it and very tasty. I am more of a wine than a cocktail drinker and was pleased to find an approachable, yet well curated, list with many bottles under $50.

Our wait turned out to be quite long. The host checked in with us regularly, and explained that those who were already seated did not seem willing to give up their tables. Understandable, considering the chic surroundings and the fact that there really isn’t anywhere else in the neighborhood to go after dinner.

Eventually we were seated in the center of the indoor dining room and received very attentive service throughout. Masseria offers two tasting menus, a three-course option for $62 and five courses for $85.

I found it interesting that for the five-course option you still choose from the same three categories: appetizers, pasta and a meat course. You can also choose a dessert if desired, but unlike many tasting menus where the larger tasting menu is set, you are still in control of your choices and can select your option based on your hunger level.

We all chose the three-course option, and the food started rolling out almost immediately.

Crusty bread was served with a tomato fondue, which tasted to me like little more than tomato paste straight from the can. A little oil or butter would have been a nice alternative. The bread was nice and crisp with a hint of sweetness from the apricots, and could almost stand on its own.

An amuse bouche of fresh tomato and burrata arrived next, a perfect bite with a touch of salt that tasted like an explosion of summer.

For my first course, I chose the Carne Cruda with Capital Hill Farm Ruby Veal, Black Truffle, Parmigiana, Chervil, Radish and Celery. The texture of the meat was a bit off-putting, cold and slightly gummy, but the truffle oil and fresh cheese made the dish taste luxurious and the crisp, fresh vegetables made all of the flavors pop in your mouth.

Although the portion sizes tend toward the smaller side, this was the perfect amount of food for a starter.

Up next was the Maccheroni with Tomato, Eggplant and Ricotta Salata. The pasta was cooked perfectly al dente, with a light red sauce and toothsome vegetables and a hint of sweetness from the cheese. Pasta portions ranged in size, the maccheroni being a bit larger than the other two pasta dishes that were ordered, probably because of the lighter sauce.

My meat selection was the Shenandoah Lamb with Shallots, Garlic and Pistachios. This was probably my least favorite dish of the night, but it was still executed very well with two selections of lamb cooked exactly as they should be. The rare lamb melted on the tongue and the combination of the pulled lamb with the sauce and onion was reminiscent of barbecue, with a touch of smoke.

One friend chose the Orata, a Dourade Fish with Cherry Tomato and Brown Butter and could not quit raving about the flaky fish and complex flavors, proving that even the dishes with a simpler medley of ingredients could be outstanding simply because of the chef’s dedication to cooking each element perfectly and using the freshest proteins and produce possible.

I was nearing perfect satiation, despite the fact that the three dishes were on the smaller side, when a plate of cannoli atop Italian flag cake arrived. The cannoli were sweet, but not cloyingly so, with a fantastic crunch while the cake was incredibly soft, with just a little bit of chew from the chocolate coating. After such an intense display of culinary expertise, this cheeky little dessert was the perfect end to the meal.

Masseria is where you go when you want to have a certain kind of night, a glam night out with your friends, a family celebration or a romantic dinner. I can see many proposals happening in that courtyard in the future, but it lends itself just as well to a fun night out with plenty of laughter, good food and drink.

They have a few kinks to work out logistically, but the food and the vision are on the same level as other top restaurants in DC, none of which can offer quite the same ambience and quirky evening you’ll get from a dinner here.

Masseria is located at 1430 4^th St. NE Washington, DC 20002. For reservations, email [email protected]. Masseria’s website is currently under construction. Their menu changes regularly.

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