By Torie Gehrig and Jessica Lewandowski

Japonais by Morimoto Chicago Review – Rose and Rolls

On a Wednesday evening, the two of us met at Japonais by Morimoto, located in the Loop on Chicago Avenue. While the building was assertive and stately on the exterior, the interior was toned down with intimate lighting and sleek architecture.  A monochrome color palette is offset by the occasional burst of color and a few Asian influences. Music reverberates smoothly throughout the restaurant where  bands like Sleigh Bells, Wilco, Daft Punk meet new-wave classics like The The, resulting in a fun, unpretentious, just-hip-enough vibe where you can kick back and feel classy at the same time.

The main level contains a dining area, sushi bar and multiple kitchens. We were graciously guided to the underground Blue Room, a lounge area with a bar and both indoor and outdoor seating. Our outdoor sofa seating allowed us to enjoy the lovely weather and patio view of the Chicago River. The atmosphere was complemented by flowing drapes, enormous low-hanging light fixtures, bamboo style furniture and leafy foliage. The service was both attentive and organized. Our server was incredibly informative throughout the evening. He listed off specials, pointed out highlights of dishes, and even gave historical background on menu items and the chefs preparing them.

The menu had a variety of Asian inspired dishes with western twists. On the front of the menu were lists of small plates, hot and cold plates, and entrées. These dishes ranged from less than $10 to $42, so there are options for everybody. The backside of the menu contained all of the sushi, maki and sashimi options, ranging from $3-$14, and also included some market price items. Japonais by Morimoto also offers special sushi and sashimi combinations, as well as prix fixe courses. There was an extensive cocktail, wine, and liquor menu. The restaurant’s website boasts Chef Morimoto’s own line of sochu, sake and craft beers, as well as the largest selection of Japanese whiskey in Chicago.

To start the night off, we sampled one of Shingo Gotan’s  hand crafted cocktails. We opted for the St. Thomas, a drink comprised of Hendrick’s gin, pineapple, cucumber, lemongrass water, lime and a dill garnish. This was a lighter option as opposed to a more booz- forward drink; nevertheless it was very refreshing and a fantastic accompaniment to summertime weather.

On Wednesdays, Japonais by Morimoto offers a special “Rolls and Rose” deal in which diners can choose two maki rolls and two glasses of selected rose wines for $38.00. In addition, $25.00 rose wine flights are also available. These flights offer four samples of wines varying from effervescent and floral to earthy and full bodied.  We opted first for the flights and then chose our favorite wine from each.

For a starter, we were offered the Thyme Roasted Baby Carrots per the suggestion of our waiter. This was an unusual dish for a Japanese restaurant. A summer farmer’s market standby, the elusive purple carrot, made a lovely and welcome appearance along with the classic orange carrot.  Throughout the dish, the carrots varied in crunch. Some were fully roasted whereas others were either completely or next to raw.  A ginger glaze and orange reduction added a pleasing sweetness. The real star of the dish, however, was the cous cous. Creamy and flavorful, the added starch rounded off the dish very effectively. The dish typically comes with a sansho yogurt sauce, which our server conscientiously omitted after being informed of a minor almond allergy.

We ordered three types of sushi: Anago Sashimi (sea eel), a Spicy Tuna Roll and Negi Hamachi (a yellow tail sushi roll). It was explained to us that Chef Morimoto chose to focus on the freshness and quality of ingredients in his sushi, so the dishes were kept simple and only contained garnish that would highlight the main components. Each sushi/sashimi dish was served with wasabi and pickled ginger. We were also provided with a house-brewed, low-sodium soy sauce. Freshness was, without a doubt, the theme of the evening.

The Anago Sashimi caught our eye (and taste buds) because it was a little different from unagi—the fresh water eel that most diners might be accompanied to. It was obviously very fresh and a little salty. The texture was fatty but delicate. Our multiple exclamations of “oh my God” accurately described how lovely the anago was; it tasted like the ocean.

We tried our Spicy Tuna Roll next. The roll was simple—chunks of tuna with scallions rolled in sushi rice with sesame seeds. Each piece provided the fresh tuna flavor, then a spicy sensation, and left us with a strong sesame aftertaste. It was surprising how each element of the spicy tuna roll took its turn providing us with flavor.

Last, we had the Negi Hamachi. Again, it was simple and excellent. Whole pieces of yellowtail were wrapped with scallions in sushi rice. While we ate the previous sushi with the traditional wasabi and pickled ginger provided with each roll, we decided we liked the negi hamachi best as-is. The yellowtail was so delicate, but it provided a citrusy flavor comparable to pineapple. We didn’t want to diminish this flavor, and Chef Morimoto so intelligently composed this roll with that intent.

To round out our dinner, we ordered the Wagyu Beef Carpaccio served with yuzu soy, ginger, garlic and microgreens. As with all wagyu beef, the slices were rich and intensely flavorful.  The dish was pleasantly peppery and had a noted but not overpowering garlic aftertaste. The cilantro micro greens were bright and refreshing and effectively prevented this dish from being bogged down by overly savory flavors.  Much like the spicy tuna roll, all the elements really stood out on their own, complimenting each other in a riot of flavor.

The dessert we chose was a special dish that evening that was not on the menu. While Japonais’s dessert menu had very recognizable selections (as well as after-dinner drinks), our server suggested we have the special because of its seemingly infinite list of sugary and seasonal components. Our dessert was a Raisin-Pecan Tamale buried under apricot sauce, blackberries, orange gummies, pumpkin brittle, black sesame seeds, honey-rosemary powder, and candied black rice topped with a quenelle of honey gelato drizzled with blood-orange caramel, garnished with red shiso leaf. This was presented on a traditional tamale corn husk. What was so complex was somehow made simple by Chef Morimoto. Each component was enjoyed individually and as combinations on our spoons. We agreed that the honey gelato with blood-orange caramel and red shiso leaf stole the limelight. Clearly pulling from different culinary backgrounds, this dessert hit traditional, modern, “mama’s cooking”, and gastronomy aspects perfectly.

Ultimately, our evening at Japonais by Morimoto in Chicago was very enjoyable. Everything we ordered was fresh and high-quality. The service provided made us feel welcomed and appreciated, and the atmosphere made us feel at-ease and relaxed. Anyone who goes should expect to have nothing short of a fantastic visit.

Looking for more amazing Asian food in Chicago?
Check out our review of Parachute Restaurant!