Hecho en Dumbo – Authentic Brooklyn Mexican

By Stephanie Le

Tired of Tex Mex yet? Well, we haven’t seen the last of puffy tacos and queso, but that doesn’t mean there’s a lack of authentic Mexican food in Brooklyn. Take Hecho en Dumbo on the Bowery, which started as a matter of blasting the lowbrow stereotypes about the cuisine.  Through a variety of small plates known as Antojitos (“little whims”), Chef Danny Mena evokes the cosmopolitan, culinary culture of Mexico’s vibrant urban centers, using local, quality ingredients, and tortillas, Salsas and Cheeses all made in house.

We started with the Queso, with Ground Beef, of course. Stretchy rectangles of Chihuahua and Asadero Cheese are melted down inside of cast iron crocks, along with crumbles of Berkshire Pork Belly, strips of Poblano Pepper, or flecks of Smoky Maize, meant to be folded into warm, pliant Tortilla Triangles, and topped with a trio of vibrantly flavored Salsas.  Needless to say we were giggling with each bite.

Other impressive starters include the Esquites, fresh Corn on the Cob slathered with Mayo and rolled in a thick coat of Cheese. The party next to us had the same thing and we actually high fived….no lie.

Equally elegant were the Picaditos de Jaiba; bite-sized Masa Boats filled with tender ribbons of Dungeness Crab and diamonds of ripe avocado and served with a side of Salsa Picante Butter to drizzle over.  I don’t want to say orgazmic, but yeah.

While we’re certainly not immune to the junky allures of Tex-Mex, it should in no way detract from the traction that authentic Mexican cuisine is gaining in Brooklyn. So when you’re ready drop the queso for Huitlacoche-Queso Fundido, and strip mall style sizzling Fajitas for plates of Berkshire Pork Shank with Chicharron, Hecho en Dumbo is a classy go-to, for refined foodies and buzzed bar goers alike.

Click here for a review on a Spanish-Chinese fusion restaurant in Manhattan.