Frontier Chicago - Rustic Dining in the Urban Jungle

Frontier Chicago – Rustic Dining in the Urban Jungle

By Torie Gehrig

When I go to eat out I look for more then just great food. I want an experience. An experience that takes me out of my bland day to day reality and transports me to a different reality even if only for an hour. Frontier Chicago does just that.

The restaurant sits on Milwaukee Avenue amongst the urban sprawl of grey storefronts. Out of nowhere, you find a massive rustic façade of multiple levels emitting warm light. It’s at once welcoming and imposing.

The interior is much the same. Once you step inside. You find yourself in a large hunting lodge. With its hardwood countertops and vaulted ceilings the space is reminiscent of a log cabin. The enamel tableware further echoes this sentiment.

While I waited for my guest to arrive, I took a seat at the bar and ordered a drink. Frontier Chicago has an extensive bar menu including both seasonal and classic cocktails, punch bowls, fine wines and a massive collection of spirits. I started off with the Front Porch Sour which was comprised of chamomile infused rye, lemon, simple syrup, angostura bitters, egg white and mint. I am a sucker for frothy egg white cocktails. Partially because it’s not something I know how to make myself. Regardless I certainly couldn’t have made this one: this cocktail was so beautiful I almost didn’t want to consume it. The drink was definitely on the delicate side. It wasn’t very booze forward so you could really taste the chamomile, which was lovely. This cocktail was on the classics menu and was on the summery. Its aptly named as it would be lovely to sip on a front porch on a balmy night.

After my friend arrived and we were seated we enjoyed another round with dinner. This time, I opted to try something seasonal. I went with The First Train Home which was made with Cutty Sark prohibition scotch, Zucca Amaro, apple cider and lemon. It was very tart, drinkable and perfect for fall. My buddy ordered the Doc Holiday which is comprised of Tromba Blanco tequila, carrot, lime, cilantro, simple syrup and Aquavit. This one was super booze forward. If John Wayne were to come in to Frontier Chicago he would be ordering this drink. Actually, this drink is so robust and classically masculine you might actually turn into John Wayne is drank 10 of these. Or at least think you did.

I want to give a big shout out to the bar manager Sean Nielsen who came and introduced himself to me. He was very enthusiastic about his craft and quite obviously puts a lot of passion into his work.

Frontier Chicago’s specialty is wild game and, if you call 5 days in advance, BIG wild game. No joke, you can actually order an entire alligator for a tidy sum.

As there were only two of us, we stuck with the regular menu, which is epic in itself. Frontier Chicago offers dishes with diverse and unusual variety of meats such as elk, venison and turtle just to name a few. Keeping with their rustic vibe, Frontier Chicago upholds the “family style” philosophy so even the regular entrees are meant to be shared.

To start with, we ordered the Lollipop Wings and Charred Duck Heart Skewers. The lollipop wings were done in Frontier Chicago’s house buffalo sauce and served with buttermilk blue cheese, house made ranch and pickled carrots. The wings were breaded to the max and delightfully crispy covered in sauce that was spicy and flavorful but not overpowering. The briny but sweet pickled carrots were a welcome departure from your standard side of carrot sticks.

I tend to be a person that veers towards the exotic when it comes to food, so the Duck Heart Skewers immediately jumped out to me. It’s a bit difficult to explain the duck heart. It was one of the most unusual things I have ever tasted and I’ve eaten a lot of weird stuff. The heart was very rich with a strong, smoky flavor. To the bite they were at once chewy and tender. If you are a risk taker, which you kind of have to be if you are going to eat at Frontier Chicago, I’d definitely recommend it.

We were also served a complimentary dish of Frontier Chicago’s Duck Tacos. These are made with duck confit, salsa verde, queso fresco, red onion, yucca and cilantro. The dish was really well rounded with effectively contrasting flavors. The duck varied from tender to crispy and was nicely brightened by the cilantro.

For our entrees we upped the anti. I ordered the Cervena Venison Shepard’s Pie. The dish is prepared with peas, turnips, celery root and potato puree. The whole thing is covered with bubbly, melted cedar grove cheddar and topped with arugula salad. It was a chilly night and I was in the mood for comfort food. This dish totally fit the bill. The venison was rich and complex in flavor and the fresh, spicy arugula added a fresh element to an otherwise rather heavy dish. Added bonus: the leftovers tasted just as good the next day.

My friend ordered the Bacon Wrapped Wagyu Sirloin served with Yucca frites and butter poached endive. One of the things that intrigued me most about this is was the fact that the sirloin is served rare, exclusively. No option of medium, medium rare, or well done. This is a ballsy move, proving that Frontier Chicago is confident in their craft and the quality of their product. They made a good call. The sirloin practically melts in your mouth. It was a real standout.

Dining at Frontier Chicago is definitely an adventure. But even more so, its like that gratifying meal you enjoy after some perilous journey. Even one day in Chicago can be exhausting enough to make you feel like you have traversed the Oregon Trail in a covered wagon. We made not face dysentery or death by rattlesnake bites. But the bustle and grit of this city, not to mention its brutal winters can be trying to say the least. Frontier Chicago offers a welcome respite from the urban jungle. At Frontier Chicago, you will find hearty meal to fill your belly and warm your spirits.