Farmhouse Chicago Review - A Midwest Farm-to-Table Tavern

Farmhouse Chicago – Locally Sourced Midwest Farm-to-Table Eats

By Trisha Ruiz Hammond

The appeal of farm-to-table dining in Chicago has increased exponentially over recent years, becoming what many would consider to be “trendy” food. While Farmhouse Chicago (228 W. Chicago Ave.) is no stranger to the farm-to-table scene (or farm-to-tavern in this case), co-owners Ferdia Doherty and TJ Callahan have created a rather special concept, forging a tavern around the idea of the Midwest, bringing with it pieces of Chicago history, and serving local food, craft beer, and liquor.

Walking through the rustic, two floor layout, guests are immersed in a space that is riddled with salvaged furniture and reclaimed pieces from different Chicago bars and restaurants, a furniture factory, and even a mechanic’s shop. The amber lighting accents the eclectic surroundings pleasantly, providing a warm atmosphere that is perfect for an intimate gathering and, of course, great food.

True to the tavern’s Midwestern theme, Executive Chef Eric Mansavage prepared a five-course tasting menu paired with Midwestern beers. The menu showcased fruit, vegetables, and meat from farms located in Illinois, Indiana, and Michigan.

For the first course, Chef Mansavage presented an Ellis Family Farms (Michigan) Green Grapes and Ham Market Amuse, paired with Farmhouse Chicago’s own apple cider, Free Priscilla. The Amuse was particularly playful, sort of a “fancified,” adult version of a peanut butter and jelly. The highlight, however, was the Free Priscilla, which was effervescent, crisp, and refined.

What was especially appealing about the second course—Green Acres Farm (Indiana) Chilled Melon Soup with Summer Poolish Salad, Spiced Yogurt, Njuda, Mint—was how perfectly ripe and fresh the melon must have been. Seriously, all melon should be this good. The poolish salad (made from a thin, yeasty bread) and njuda (a spicy pork sausage) provided a nice counterpoint to the melon in both taste and texture. The soup was paired with 3 Floyds Calumet Queen.

Third on the tasting menu was Grilled Rushing Waters Rainbow Trout with Black Garlic Roasted Tomatillos, Black Bean Relish, Swan Creek Stables (Illinois) Bacon Lardon, paired with Revolution Rosa. This dish was simply a beauty to behold.

The highlight of the fourth course—BBQ Braised Grass Fed Shortribs, Butter Poached Indiana Shrimp, Hazzard Free Farm (Illinois) Pimento Cheese, Popcorn Grits, Sweet Corn—was Chef Mansavage’s use of corn. The pimento cheese grits provided a rich, homey base for what was truly a comfort dish. The bits of sweet corn gave the course a pop of freshness, while the popcorn grits and dried crumbled corn bread added much needed crunch. The shortribs were paired with Dark Horse Smells Like a Safety Meeting.

The final course, which was a Peaches and Cream Ice Cream Sandwich, with Mick Klug Farm (Michigan) Peach Marmalade, Milk Jam & Ice Cream, Vanilla Bean Shortcake, paired with Penrose Deminimus Mandarina, made me genuinely thankful for the freshness of ingredients used.