Sabroso, Excelente, Qué Rico
Cantina La Veinte Mexicoo!!
Photos By Jason Hesch
As I walked into Cantina La Veinte the vibe is just right. Balanced between conversation and background music, I can easily hear my dining neighbor over a low beat of the music with enough pump to put a jingle into your swagger that keeps me entertained. The chef is also the chef from Tacology in Brickell City Center. Another excellent place to check out and not too far from Cantina. The Location, of which, is the envious corner lot in downtown Miami (Brickell side) at the mouth of the Miami River and Brickell Avenue in the beautiful IconBrickell building. Art Deco interior decor, in the grand New York 1930s style, think Chrysler building, fills out the whole scene. The floor is a classic black and white chessboard tile. Walls were of black and gold color combo with gold trim all around. The walls are layered with shelves holding unique art pieces and trinkets from the regions of Mexico.
Sitting at my table In front of me is an open kitchen. Along the low wall, I can see planters of green herbs. Almost every dish had micro greens to garnish. I’m guessing from the planters. I also watched a cook furiously cranking, at what I first thought to be a pasta machine, but actually, a dough flattening machine, making homemade tortillas. At the table, the fresh hot tortillas crunched in my mouth and were generously salted, thick.
This is not your typical Mexican. This place is refined Mexican and the waiters wore red bowties. No enchiladas or tacos here. While it may look like any other fancy restaurant, with typical fancy food, what you will find are foods that are cook with spices from all parts of Mexico. The chef takes special attention to our dinner, announcing he cooked every dish we were offered solely by himself.
To whet our appetite our first appetizer is a mini blue mug with spicy lobster soup-drink concoction.
The first course was of a Tuna Tataki in a sweet jalapeño sauce with pea tendrils and sliced jalapeño. The tuna, sliced thin, seared around the edges melts in your mouth tender with a sweet tang from the sauce.
The second course was of Seafood Aguachile, (aka Mexican ceviche) with Shrimp, Octopus, King and Soft Shell Crab and Scallop in a sauce made of fresh lime juice, cilantro, serrano chile, cucumber, and avocado. The shellfish firmness holds court dancing around the king of this dish, which is the supple scallop at the center with a raw texture like an oyster. Just like the tuna dish, plated on top of a spicy green sauce, making sure your taste buds are kept awake.
The third course was of Sopes de Wagyu. The Wagyu beef was delicious, soft and flavorful. It was served on a handmade corn masa and topped black beans, sour cream, and queso fresco. This was the only dish I recognized in the genre of “Tex-Mex”. But one of my favorites. The sope is crispy on the outside and soft on the inside. The marinated beef with its flavor of fats was superb.
The four-course was a Branzino a La Talla. Branzino fish in a talla sauce over a parsnip puree. The fish is similar to rockfish, flounder or sea bass. The charred crust added a flavorful kick to the fine light buttery fish. The talla was delicious, smooth, creamy, potato flavor sauce that held up well with this light and mild flavor white fish.
In the middle of our meal, maybe it was someone’s birthday, but a Mariachi band started playing. Now I know I’m in Mexico. With all of these dishes, I was starting to get a bit full. I turned to my neighbor and made a wager as to whether the next dish was to be another entrée or dessert. As it turned out… They did not disappoint, saving the best for last. The fifth dish was a strip of Wagyu beef over Carrot Puree and Bone Marrow. The puree was smooth and thick and paired nicely with the most tender and juicy beef cooked to perfection.
Between each course, a new set of silverware and plate was served. So classy. So when we were handed a spoon, unlike a knife and fork for all past courses, I knew dessert was on. Dessert was a sweet trio. Deliciously hot house-made churros with cajeta, a white chocolate covered mango panna cotta with house-made frozen yogurt, and finally tres leches. The vanilla ice-cream was so soft and velvety. I could not get enough of. What a meal!
Cantina La Veinte is located at 495 Brickell Ave, Miami, FL 33131. For reservations call (786) 623-6135. They are open Monday thru Thursday 12pm to 12am. Friday 12pm to 1am. Saturday 1:30pm to 1am. Sunday 12:30pm to 11pm.
