By Russell Pevey

Borgne Seafood Review

In a city like New Orleans, serving up authentic Louisiana seafood can be a competitive market, and Borgne Seafood Restaurant – one of my favorite John Besche establishments – sets the par for Cajun seafood cuisine.

Located in the Central Business District just blocks away from the French Quarter, Borgne recreates classic dishes but with an original twist. This high-end, yet casual-style restaurant is located in the Hyatt Regency Hotel and is infused with that same quiet-luxurious atmosphere

Upon entering, the diner is soon reassured that southern hospitality still exists. With a warm greeting, we were seated and our server appeared within minutes to explain in detail the special of the night: Amberjack Fish-in-a-Bag, with caramelized fennel, spinach, tomato, and crab fat. This ‘in a bag’ method of cooking is an old school French method called sous-vide or ‘under vacuum’.

To start out, we ordered the Turkey Necks in crab oil and pepper jelly. This is a southern specialty, which I have only seen served at festivals. This turkey neck was done just right; slowly smoked and then finished off on high in the oven, to make it perfectly crisp on the outside while still succulent and falling apart within.

The other appetizer was a no brainer: Duck Poppers. Roasted duck, wrapped in bacon and set atop a dollop of her cream cheese, then drizzled with balsamic reduction. Wonderful dishes, both.

Next came a grilled peach salad with arugula. The perfect balance of sweet and savory flavors – from the whipped mahone (a Spanish made cheese) and the roasted pumpkinseed pesto, to the sweet flavors of the grilled peaches. Topped off with a little crispness from toasted baguette slices. This was a truly unique dish.

For the entrée came one of John Besche’s many signature southern Louisiana creations. Pan-seared drum with brown butter and a healthy portion of roasted pecans, with jumbo lump crabmeat on top, and served with a side of char-grilled sweet corn. The sight and smell of it reminded me that none of these ingredients had to travel very far to make it to my dish. Everything on the plate could be found within a short travel time from the restaurant. This is how food, given the proper love and care, is supposed to taste.

But what’s a meal without a dessert. At last, the Chocolate Hazelnut Pudding arrived – with condensed milk sorbet and amaretti cookies. A sweet nightcap which left me feeling blissfully comatose, floating on a cloud.

With a full and happy belly – made that way by courteous and attentive wait staff – I couldn’t have had a bad time at Borgne Seafood Restaurant. In a city where cajun and seafood are an everyday experience, this restaurant truly sets the modern-day standard.

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