Babbalucci – Italian and Wood Oven Eats on Harlem’s Restaurant Row
By Julianne Clancy; Photos by Sean vonLembke
If you are a New Yorker and you haven’t yet been to Harlem’s Restaurant Row, the sweet stretch of amazing eateries on Malcolm X Blvd., just north of bustling 125th street, I have just one question for you: What in heaven’s name are you waiting for? The area is already know for it’s classic favorites like Sylvia’s and celeb chef destinations like Red Rooster, but unbeatable new restaurants are making this a foodie destination all over again. Just take, for example, Babbalucci Italian Kitchen and Wood Burning Oven. This jazzy, relaxing, and delicious spot that opened last July and has been making mouths water ever since with their creative cocktails and unbelievably addictive pizza. Even better, they offer a brunch filled with everything from eggs to pizzas to paninis making them a perfect destination to start off a Sunday stroll (which will be much needed after eating all the amazing food on offer).
From the moment we walked in to Babbalucci, we felt at home. The irresistible smell of lightly charred dough and calming pop of burning wood filled the air, while the open dining room, with its exposed brick walls, cozy but well-stocked bar, and gentle blues music in the background, practically screamed to come, kick-back, and enjoy a few drinks. According to co-owner Christy Phansond, the chill atmosphere of Babbalucci arose naturally. Chef/Owner Andrew LoPresto wanted to create a menu based on Italian cooking and a farm to table food, but when they saw the exposed brick walls of their new space, they knew they had to go for a brick wood burning oven. The result is a calm, family-friendly spot that we immediately relaxed into, ready for some fabulous food and a leisurely start to our Sunday.
First up, of course, were some drinks to sip on as we perused the menu. The Mangapeño, a mix of Purity Vodka, Aperol, Mango Nectar, Lemon Juice, and Jalapeño topped with Prosecco was fruit-forward and mild. Unlike some jalapeño drinks which overwhelm with spice, this had just a hint of the fiery pepper, enough to wake up my tastebuds and infuse the drink with a pleasant, verdant aroma. The Mangapeño was definitely deliciously dangerous, as the sweet, smooth blend of flavors masked any alcoholic burn beautifully.
We also sampled the 50 Special—Campari, Wild Turkey Ry 101, Orange Marmalade, and Citrus topped with Lager and Thyme—a drink that could not have been more different than the Mangapeño but was incredible in its own way. This drink was very whiskey forward, with that burn that any whiskey lover craves. But the shining element of the cocktail was the marmalade, which infused the drink with the sour, almost bitter flavor of fresh orange rind. Strong and subtle, this was a cocktail that let you know you were drinking in the most delectable of ways.
We needed to get chowing down before our drinks went to our heads, but, luckily, our fantastic feast began rolling out of the kitchen. First, we sampled the Parfait: Layers of Yogurt, Granola, Berries, and Honey. Babbalucci wisely used plain yogurt for this refreshing starter, letting the natural sweetness of the fruit and the floral aroma of the honey fill my palate, while the sourness of the yogurt prevented the dish from becoming cloying. The longer the fruit and yogurt sat together, the better the dish became, so I highly recommend ordering this one early but waiting to eat it for dessert.
Our other starter was a Bruschetta, served with Poached Egg, Prosciutto, and Asparagus. This crunchy, bready dish was not any average Bruschetta, but that was definitely not a bad thing. With the ingredients arranged beautifully and separately on the plate, we were able to make our own treats, layering exactly how much of each ingredient we wanted on the sourdough toast or eating each element on its own. The eggs were perfectly poached, runny on the inside and fluffy on the outside, while the asparagus was only lightly grilled, giving it a beautiful crispness. The salad on the side was more than just a garnish. It’s lemony, acidic dressing was the perfect balance to the rich, saltiness the prosciutto gave the rest of the dish.
Babbalucci’s incredible wood burning oven is definitely the focal point of the restaurant and, likewise, the wood oven pizzas we ordered were definitely the focal point of our meal. The Burrata Pizza, Cream-centered Mozzarella layered over Tomato Sauce with Fresh Basil, was one of the best Margarita-style pizzas I have ever had. The crust was chewy and puffy yet somehow airy and light with a great woody char on the bottom, while the sauce was fresh and acidic, with just enough spread onto the crust to give amazing flavor but not drown the dough. The cheese was what really made this exceptional though. Stringy and smooth on the outside and creamy and melty on the inside, with a mild tang and unctuous richness that dazzled my tastebuds, the burrata was a pizza revelation. It will be hard to accept any lesser mozzarella on my pizzas from here on out.
But Babbalucci’s doesn’t just do the classics well. The Vicolo—a Pizza made with Mozzarella, Sausage, Onion, and Egg—was absolutely incredibly and truly inventive. This is a fork-and-knife pizza, in the best possible way. The yolk of the egg ran out over the top of the slightly sweet fennel sausage, salty cheese, and once again phenomenal crust to create a warm, comforting, and absolutely divine bite that was way too satisfyingly messy to pick up with my hands. I’m generally not a fan of putting non-classic toppings on my pizza, like egg, but the Vicolo was a perfect blend of brunchy goodness and pizza traditionalism that made me rethink my puritanical pizza ways.
Stuffed to the gills, we realized that we couldn’t let our exceptional brunch experience go by without tasting at least a few more of Babbalucci’s daring drinks. This time, we asked the bartender to surprise us with her favorites, and she definitely did not disappoint. The Henny Dear Friend, blending Hennessy VS, St. Germain, Lemon Juice, Simple Syrup, Black Grapes, and Basil, was sort of like an alcoholic Sweet Tart. The sour flavors of the lemon collided with the dark juiciness of the grape, the herbaciousness of the basil, and the rich alcoholic tang of the Hennessy in a way that was at once nostalgic and completely new.
It was the El Viejito that stole the show for the drinks, though. This mixture of Espolon Tequila Silver, Combier Grapefruit, Bell Pepper Juice, Citrus, and Agave was unlike anything I have ever drank before. The vegetable taste of the bell pepper was incredibly prominent—something that I would never have imagined would make a good drink. But the verdant aroma, melded with the kick of the tequila and sweetness of the agave and citrus, was refreshing, summery, and surprising. This is a drink that cannot be found anywhere else, that is definitely worth revisiting time and time again.
Eating in Harlem is always a pleasure. The neighborhood boasts one of the best mix of flavors, food, cultures, and creativity that New York City has to offer. Yet, in a restaurant crowded neighborhood, Babbalucci definitely stands out—both for its amazing wood fired food and its inviting atmosphere. Take a break next Sunday to stroll the neighborhood and stop by Babbalucci for a brunch you definitely won’t regret.
