Ponty Bistro Harlem – A Taste of Senegal in NYC

By Julianne Clancy

Fusion food is in right now; our palates can’t seem to get enough of the creative blends of flavors, spices, and traditions. But when Chef Cisse of Ponty Bistro Harlem moved from Senegal to the United States, he noticed one type of fusion, that to him was the most natural pairing in the world, was missing in New York City: French and West African.  So, after working under culinary luminaries like Daniel Boulud and Jean-George Vongerichten, Cisse partnered with his cousin to bring his vibrant spices and French culinary sensibilities to his own fusion joint in Gramercy. Eight years later, he brought those same flavors to Harlem, his home for the past twenty years—and thus Ponty Bistro Harlem was born.

The one-year-old Harlem eatery is a perfect blend of suave sophistication and casual comfort. From the calming blue walls to the classic white marble tabletops to the naked bulb sconces lining the wall, the dining area is an exercise in simplicity that is at once homey and elegant.

After seeing the gorgeous, well-stocked bar at the front of the restaurant, cocktails were definitely in order. While all the classics were well represented, we opted for more creative offerings. The Ponty Martini (pictured on the right) was blend of vodka, Chambord, ginger, and lemon that resulted in a satisfyingly sweet drink that almost tasted of gingerbread. The Harlem Martini (pictured on the left) blasted my palate with citrus, from both the Absolute Citron and lime juice, but then balanced the flavors with the delicate floral and berry flavors of bissap (or hibiscus) juice.

If mixed drinks aren’t your thing, try a Tusker beer, an imported Kenyan lager that is just light enough to cleanse the palate after the delicious spice-filled food to come and just heavy enough to be a satisfying beer to sit and sip.

First up was a playful take on American bar food: Chicken Wings. Fried to perfection on the outside and juicy and tender on the inside, these finger-food classics were lightly bathed in a sweet and sour pineapple sauce which cut through the fry beautifully. The Nem, a kind of chicken spring roll, were studded with bits of charred chicken, buried in a nest of lightly curried glass noodles and a light, crunchy shell. The sauces were what really made it sing. The sweet brown sauce reminded me hoisin but with a million times more finesse while the orange chili sauce was both tangy and hot. Together, they were magical.

The Crispy Tuna, delicate chunks of fish wrapped in ginger and cilantro, and served with a soy-ginger sauce, wasabi cream, and a hint of chili oil, was truly exceptional. The high-quality fish was cooked just enough to give the wrapping texture while leaving the center of the fish fresh and rare. This dish managed to hit every possible flavor I could want, from the saltiness of the dark, rich soy sauce to the slow burn of the smooth wasabi, to the herbacious lightness of the cilantro. I had to resist using a spoon to sop up every bit of sauce on the plate.

I came to Ponty Bistro wanting to taste the flavors of Senegal, and our entrees did not disappoint. The Niokolokoba showed Chef Cisse’s skill in seamlessly blending the best of both African and French cuisines. This medium-rare steak, coated in a classic au Poivre sauce, the slight sweetness of the cognac accented by the sharp bite of the cracked black pepper, was an excellent example of a Steak au Poivre. Where this dish differed, though, was in the marinade, which imbued the meat with tenderness and a wealth of flavors that were startling and warming all at once—elevating this dish from something traditional into something unique and noteworthy.

The best dish of the night had to be the Grilled Shrimp Basquaise. The shrimp itself was cooked wonderfully, with just a hint of smokiness from the grill. But it was the curry that truly blew my mind. The vibrant yellow sauce was slightly tart, due to the lemongrass base, light and sweet from the coconut milk, and amazingly earthy. The blend of spices was unlike anything I’ve ever tasted—somewhat like garam marsala but with more depth and darkness and an unidentifiable but enchanting aroma that permeated the dish. When I asked Chef Cisse what the spice was, he simply said “African spice“—I guess it’s a family secret I’ll never uncover, but I do know it was one of the most amazing combination of flavors I’ve ever had the pleasure of tasting.

Normally, I am not a fan of molten chocolate cakes, but I have to admit Ponty Bistro’s Chocolate Fondant was beautifully done. Eschewing sweetness for rich flavor, this smooth, melty desert was rich without being heavy, fluffy on the outside and gooey on the inside. I found myself scraping the plate in moments, having devoured it faster than I even realized.

Whereas some fusion restaurants seem to try to hard to mash conflicting flavors together, Ponty Bistro Harlem showcases the incredible flavors that can result when two cuisines are naturally and elegantly combined. If you want to give African spices a try, I cannot recommend Ponty Bistro Harlem highly enough—just make sure to pick me up some of that lemongrass curry while you’re there.

Click Here for a Harlem Bar Around the Corner that Serves Up Slick Cocktails and Sick Jazz.