When one thinks of Michelin starred restaurants, images of grandiose venues and extravagant checks come to mind. However, in the case of Horvath Restaurant in Berlin, this is not so. This Michelin-starred restaurant presents a serene and minimalist setting that offers astoundingly great food that is actually quite affordable. It has no need for the fancy paintings or sculptures often seen in other pretentious locations, because Chef Sebastian Frank’s cuisine alone will enthrall you as he weaves a tapestry of bold and inventive new flavors.
Although it is named after the Austrian-Hungarian writer Ödön von Horváth, it is the young, prodigy Chef Sebastian Frank that instills Horvath Restaurant with its delectable identity. One would not have the faintest idea of Chef Frank’s profound talent from the affable humility he exudes. Known for being creative and fun, we heard a story of how he once cooked fish inside the washing machine of his neighborhood laundromat to demonstrate the art of sous-vide cooking. He then served his inventive cuisine to random people sitting on the bench outside the laundromat.
The menu is inspired by the traditional Austrian-Hungarian cuisine Chef Sebastian Frank grew up with, and then elevated by his unique treatment of his ingredients, innovative techniques, and intense focus on vegetables. I have dined at Michelin-starred restaurants around the world and have not experienced as many original & magnificent flavors as I did at Horvath.
The menu only includes 10 dishes, but they are packed with more majestic flavors than can be found on much larger menus. You can experience the entire menu for only 78 euros or choose to have the wine included for ONLY 119 euros! I, of course, elected the 10 course tasting menu with the wine pairings, because YES! I live to try it all.
The first course of Broccoli/Mustard Seeds/Garlic set the stage for a night of new flavors. Don’t be fooled by the the dish below which on the surface appears to be the simple compilation of the aforementioned ingredients. You will quickly realize your folly as you discover they were entwined in a mouthwatering fashion. The broccoli was pickled and combined with cream of milk vinegar and caraway seed. The mustard seeds are roasted and singular garlic sprouts are cooked to perfection. The first taste of these manipulated ingredients burst my eyes wide in utter delight. The deep cream contrasted against the crispy seeds coupled with the vinegar broccoli was a brand new experience for my palate, resulting in an epiphany of taste.
The Pikeperch/Tagliatelle/Cream Sauce had a sauce that you’d consider trading your children in for. It is virtually impossible to explain the taste, but it was composed of confit of white onion, bell pepper butter, fried chicken gravy, kohlrabi-mushroom cream sauce and chicken spice! Chef Frank is a brilliant mad scientist who has combined far-flung ingredients from the pantry to create masterfully original flavors.
The stunning Mushroom/Celery/Malt plate contained varying textures of delightful bread cream and well hung sour cream. The texture of the wet and silky celery against the crunchy mushrooms was absolutely dreamy.
The Schneenockerl/Smoke/Root Vegetable was a smoked and poached egg topped with fried onions & cayenne that disintegrated into my salivating palate. The celery, onion and trout cream sauce was an utter revelation.
The Veal/Mirepoix/Chervil was the only meat dish of the night and it was marvelous. The veal was a perfect soft and succulent slice. You can even see the juiciness glistening off the screen. The beaten egg bouillon with chervil created another prolific sauce, which infallibly complimented the veal.
The Hazelnut/Molasses/Brown Butter was a fascinating dessert with a multitude of varying layers, textures and flavors dedicated to the beloved hazelnut. This included salty hazelnut cream, roasted and sweetened hazelnuts, hazelnut oil, fluffy chocolate and nut butter ice cream. A celestial and intricate conclusion to a fascinating meal.
Horvath Restaurant will easily be one of the best and most enchanting meals of your life. The service was outstanding, the setting comforting, and the food will take your palate where it has never ventured before. Chef Frank has created awe-inspiring & innovative flavors and dishes that are impossible to adequately put into mere words. You must travel to Berlin and experience this palate changing gift for yourself.
Such well taken photos! Really makes you feel so close to the food…can smell the roasted hazelnuts:)