City Perch Review – Bethesda, MD

City Perch Review – Bethesda, MD

By Victoria D.

Although DC is practically swarming with popular dive bars, hipster cafés, upscale bistros run by world-famous restauranteurs and of course food trucks as far as the eye can see, the nearby Maryland suburbs offer plenty of equally mouthwatering options, (yes, including crab cakes).

At City Perch, a flirtatious addition to North Bethesda’s budding entertainment district, the Brioche Crusted Maryland Blue Crab Cakes ($18) are indeed a popular hors d’oeuvre, but with a menu full of locally sourced seafood, farm-to-table produce and inventively prepared seasonal fare, hungry patrons are guaranteed a unique blend of fresh and savory dining options.

The limited dinner menu offers deviceful recreations of classic dishes without compromising their original appeal to diners who are hoping for familiar favorites. For example, the French Onion Soup ($9) is thick, rich and oozing with herbed gruyere cheese and white cheddar gratin instead of a traditional Swiss or mozzarella. A nice, sharp and creamy remix. The broth is made even more decadent by the tender, braised beef short rib peppered throughout, making it suitable as both a starter and a main entrée.

city perch

The “Everything Waffle” ($14), a creamy combination of Norwegian smoked salmon, dill crème fraiche and trout roe atop four crisp, buttery waffles, is a far brighter and balanced option than the French Onion Soup which is almost too decadent, too heavy and sometimes too salty, per bite. The lightness of the crème fraiche balances well against the sparse, but tangy bites of the trout caviar. Each of your forkfuls really must include every, single ingredient on the plate in order for you to fully appreciate this dish; the combination of sweet, smoky, salty and creamy makes this a fresh, traditional and satisfying appetizer to share. Like bagels and lox? Try this dish.

city perch

My order? The Citrus Marinated Gulf Shrimp ($18) with Southern Style Braised Kale ($8). The shrimp, finished with mild herb oil, are chargrilled to perfection and very tender, the portion generous, however a stronger pinch of citrus would brighten an otherwise ordinary and a little underwhelming plate of crustaceans. Good news is the Southern Style Braised Kale tastes like the familiar comfort food our grandmothers make for Sunday dinners. Seasoned with apple cider vinegar, brown sugar and topped with bacon lardons, the tender kale absorbs the tartness of the vinegar, the sweetness of the sugar and the fat and saltiness of the bacon which is crisp on the outside and melt-in-your-mouth tender. Delicious! My guess is that this heavy and indulgent side dish would also pair well with a light protein such as the Slow Roast Chicken ($16) or Cedar Smoked Salmon ($26).

Other rock star menu items include the Assorted Bread and Butter Board ($10) which my friends and I shared (and devoured). The Orange Sage Biscuit with maple bourbon pecan butter is both crunchy and moist and tastes like Thanksgiving. My favorite. Also, shout out to City Perch bartenders who concoct a fine top shelf cocktail. The Cherry Julep ($11) is fruity but not overly sweet; the hint of mint balances nicely with the generous helping of tart cherries.

city perch

A perfect “date night” locale, City Perch is a new restaurant aptly “perched” atop the Pike and Rose center, home to recently constructed high-end condominiums, specialty shops, day spas and your all American staples, i.e., The Gap. Choose to dine in and enjoy the candlelit rustic wooden tables, earth-toned decor and model-esque wait staff or instead enjoy their meals inside the luxury iPic movie theater located on the same floor.

My party rang up an impressive tab (nearly $60 per person after drinks), but this time around it was worth it to indulge in a classy, sexy night out. Friendly service too.

City Perch

11830 Grand Park Ave, North Bethesda, MD 20852 (301) 231-2310

Click Here to See A Preview of Lena’s Wood-Fired Pizza & Tap


Leave a Reply